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Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli
Author: Ilya Parkins
Publisher: A&C Black
ISBN: 0857853287
Pages: 208
Year: 2013-07-25
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Through a highly original and detailed analysis of the memoirs, interviews and other life writings of Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli, this book explores changing notions of femininity in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the democratization of fashion began. Examining the idea of modernity, eternity and the ephemeral in the writings of these haute couturiers, the book reflects on fashion's ambivalent approach to women, which both celebrated and vilified them, presenting them as both ultra modern style leaders and irrational creatures stuck in the past. This fascinating text is key reading for scholars and students of fashion, gender studies, cultural studies and history.
Vintage Fashion & Couture
Author: Kerry Taylor
Publisher: Mitchell Beazley
ISBN: 1845338561
Pages:
Year: 2017-02-13
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"I thought I knew almost everything about the history of fashion until I met Kerry Taylor. The inside-out knowledge she has of garments will inspire both students and designers to look at fashion with fresh eyes." - Sarah Mower, US Vogue "This beautiful book by Kerry Taylor - the go-to woman for vintage and antique couture - is a treat for collectors and fashion lovers alike." - The Wall Street Journal "Whatever my question about vintage, Kerry Taylor has the answer. Her expertise, knowledge and historical anecdotes have raised the level of interest in this subject hugely." -Lisa Armstrong, Daily Telegraph Named one of Glamour Magazine's "Must-Read Style Books"! Profiled by Vogue and The New York Times and courted by style icons with wardrobes to sell and top designers in search of inspiration, Kerry Taylor is one of the world's leading experts on vintage fashion and couture. In this lavishly illustrated book, Kerry tells the story of a century of fashion through the work of its key design talents and the memorable women who have worn their creations. All the fashion stars are here from Poiret to McQueen via Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Madame Grès, Dior, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood, Alaïa, and Margiela. For each designer Kerry explores their career through a dazzling range of clothes and accessories, explaining what makes each item so desirable to the collector or wearer of vintage fashion. Each chapter includes at least one 'style icon' whose relationship with fashion has had a lasting impact, including Baba D'Erlanger, Lauren Bacall, Grace Kelly, Catherine Deneuve, Paloma Picasso and Kate Moss. Illustrated with a mix of gorgeous fashion photography plus images from Kerry's own astonishing archive, this book is set to become an invaluable guide for collectors of vintage (whatever their budget) and all those who love fashion. Contents includes... Foreword by Hubert de Givenchy Prologue by Christopher Kane 1900s Paul Poiret Lucile Mariano Fortuny 1920s Jean Patou Jeanne Lavin Chanel in the Twenties 1930s Elsa Schiaparelli Style Icon Wallis Simpson Madeleine Vionnet - The Architect of Couture 1940s The effects of War on Fashion in Europe American Fashion in the Forties Christian Dior - The Saviour of French Haute Couture 1950s Pierre Balmain Cristóbal Balenciaga - The Master Style Icon Grace Kelly 1960s Mary Quant Hubert de Givenchy Style Icon Audrey Hepburn 1970s Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies Zandra Rhodes Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren 1980s Italian Masters Azzedine Alaïa John Galliano 1990s The New Romantics Thierry Mugler Style Icon Kate Moss 2000s Later McQueen Style Icon Daphne Guinness Collecting Vintage Taking Care of your Collection ..And so much more!
King of Fashion
Author: Paul Poiret
Publisher: V&a Fashion Perspectives
ISBN: 1851779612
Pages: 128
Year: 2019-06-18
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Paul Poiret (1879-1944) led the fashion world in the first decades of the 20th century. His autobiography tells the story of the meteoric rise of a draper's son to the "King of Fashion." From his humble Parisian childhood, to his debut as a couturier, to his experiences during World War I, Poiret reveals all in this captivating tale, first published in 1931. His artistic flair, coupled with his remarkable and highly original cutting skills, enabled him to translate the spirit of Art Deco into revolutionary garments, and his memoirs bring this astonishing period to life. An astute businessman, Poiret describes the expansion of his fashion empire to encompass interior decor and the first designer perfume and evocatively recounts his extravagant parties, where guests paraded in his latest creations.
Poiret
Author: Harold Koda, Andrew Bolton
Publisher: Metropolitan Museum of Art
ISBN: 1588392236
Pages: 224
Year: 2007
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This volume explores Poiret's radical modernity. Essays by renowned scholars describe the historical context of his work; its relation to the dominant artistic discourses of the early 20th century; his muse, Denise Poiret, and her influence on his work; and his role in the paradigmatic shift to a new ideal of feminine beauty.
Couture Confessions ebook
Author: Pamela Golbin
Publisher: Rizzoli Publications
ISBN: 0847849058
Pages: 272
Year: 2016-06-28
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Late legendary couturiers of modern fashion speaking eloquently about life, design, and inspiration. Vionnet, Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, McQueen—these names define haute couture, and long after the designers have passed away, their influence on fashion continues to be profound. In an exceptional compilation of the original words of these couturiers, Couture Confessions provides a unique and in-depth look at the lives and work of these fashion icons. In this engaging, beautifully designed book, Pamela Golbin, acclaimed chief curator of twentieth-century fashion and textiles at Paris’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs, has ingeniously constructed conversations in the designers’ own words that highlight their compelling personal stories as well as essential fashion "moments"—from designers Paul Poiret, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Madame Grès, Alexander McQueen, Madeleine Vionnet, and Gabrielle Chanel to Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Jeanne Lanvin, Pierre Balmain, and Christian Dior.Featuring striking illustrations by internationally recognized illustrator Yann Legendre, each "interview" asks the questions every fashion lover has always wanted to ask, making these legends approachable, human, and ever more inspiring.
House of Fashion
Author: Jess Berry
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 1474283411
Pages: 232
Year: 2018-07-12
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Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.
Elsa Schiaparelli
Author: Palmer White
Publisher: Aurum PressLtd
ISBN: 185410358X
Pages: 224
Year: 1995
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A biography of Elsa Schiaparelli, whose dress designs took Paris by storm in the 1930s and whose influence can still be seen in modern fashion.
Modernism à la Mode
Author: Elizabeth M. Sheehan
Publisher: Cornell University Press
ISBN: 1501728164
Pages: 276
Year: 2018-10-15
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Modernism à la Mode argues that fashion describes why and how literary modernism matters in its own historical moment and ours. Bringing together texts, textiles, and theories of dress, Elizabeth Sheehan shows that writers, including Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, W.E.B. Du Bois, Nella Larsen, and F. Scott Fitzgerald, turned to fashion to understand what their own stylized works could do in the context of global capital, systemic violence, and social transformation. Modernists engage with fashion as a mood, a set of material objects, and a target of critique, and, in doing so, anticipate and address contemporary debates centered on the uses of literature and literary criticism amidst the supposed crisis in the humanities. A modernist affect with a purpose, no less. By engaging modernism à la mode—that is, contingently, contextually, and in light of contemporary concerns—this book offers an alternative to the often-untenable distinctions between strong or weak, suspicious or reparative, and politically activist or quietist approaches to literature, which frame current debates about literary methodology. As fashion helps us to describe what modernist texts do, it enables us to do more with modernism as a form of inquiry, perception, and critique. Fashion and modernism are interwoven forms of inquiry, perception, and critique, writes Sheehan. It is fashion that puts the work of early twentieth-century writers in conversation with twenty-first century theories of emotion, materiality, animality, beauty, and history.
Elsa Schiaparelli
Author: Meryle Secrest
Publisher: Knopf
ISBN: 0385353278
Pages: 400
Year: 2014-10-07
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The first biography of the grand couturier, surrealist, and embattled figure (her medium was apparel), whose extraordinary work has stood the test of time. Her style was a social revolution through clothing-luxurious, eccentric, ironic, sexy; synonymous with fashion innovation and chicesse. She was audacious; her fashions were inspired from the whimsical to the most practical-from a Venetian cape of the commedia dell'arte to a Soviet parachute. She collaborated on her designs with some of the greatest artists of the twentieth-century: on jewelry with Jean Schlumberger; on clothes with Salvador Dalí; with Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti; with photographers Man Ray, Horst, Cecil Beaton, and the young Richard Avedon. Her name: Elsa Schiaparelli. She was known as the Queen of Fashion; a headline attraction in the international glitter-glamour show of the late twenties and thirties; she gave fabulous parties-and went to those given by others; she lived and worked seriously and hard in much-photographed residences and was a guest at others; she knew the "everybodies" who were always "there" and inevitably became one of them herself, feted in Rome (where she was born), Paris, New York, London, Moscow, Dallas, Hollywood, Dublin. Now, Meryle Secrest, acclaimed biographer-whose work has been called "enthralling" (WSJ); "captivating" (WP Book World); "Rich in detail, scrupulously researched, sympathetically written" (NYRB), and who has captured the lives of many of the twentieth-century's most iconic, cultural figures, among them: Frank Lloyd Wright, Bernard Berenson, Leonard Bernstein, Duveen; Richard Rodgers; Modigliani; Stephen Sondheim-gives us the never-before-told story of this most extraordinary fashion designer, perhaps the most extraordinary fashion designer of the twentieth-century, who in her time was more famous than Chanel.
The Glass of Fashion
Author: Cecil Beaton
Publisher: Rizzoli Publications
ISBN: 0847844641
Pages: 400
Year: 2014-09-02
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Gorgeously repackaged, this reissue of the classic book presents the iconic photographer’s expert and witty reminiscences of the personalities who inspired fashion’s golden eras, and left an indelible mark on his own sense of taste and style. "The camera will never be invented that could capture or encompass all that he actually sees," Truman Capote once said of Cecil Beaton. Though known for his portraits, Beaton was as incisive a writer as he was a photographer. First published in 1954, The Glass of Fashion is a classic—an invaluable primer on the history and highlights of fashion from a man who was a chronicler of taste, and an intimate compendium of the people who inspired his legendary eye. Across eighteen chapters, complemented by more than 150 of his own line drawings, Beaton writes with great wit about the influence of luminaries such as Chanel, Balenciaga, and Dior, as well as relatively unknown muses like his Aunt Jessie, who gave him his first glimpse of "the grown-up world of fashion." Out of print for decades but recognized and sought after as a touchstone text, The Glass of Fashion will be irresistible to a new generation of fashion enthusiasts and a seminal book in any Beaton library. It is both a treasury and a treasure.
Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion
Author: Ilya Parkins, Elizabeth M. Sheehan
Publisher: UPNE
ISBN:
Pages: 268
Year: 2012-04-10
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An interdisciplinary collection illuminating how fashion shaped concepts and practices of femininity and modernity
A Year in Fashion
Author: Pascal Morché
Publisher: Prestel Pub
ISBN: 3791343734
Pages: 740
Year: 2009
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A day-by-day look at twenthieth-century fashion offers 365 double-page spreads featuring a diverse selection of designers, looks, and labels from haute couture to ready-to-wear.
Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture
Author: Florence Müller, Patrick Sigal, Grand-Hornu (Firm)
Publisher: Vendome Pr
ISBN:
Pages: 271
Year: 2007-09-01
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This sumptuously illustrated book surveys the exquisite range of costume jewelry produced by haute couture fashion houses, a subject until now overlooked by historians and fashion cognoscenti alike. The term "costume jewelry" was coined in the twentieth century for the use of non-precious metals and jewels for human adornment. This book showcases the extraordinary diversity and exceptional craftsmanship of this jewelry in hundreds of beautifully reproduced pieces from such fashion houses as Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, and Givenchy. "A time capsule of creativity." ~ Dallas Morning News
Becoming a Fashion Designer
Author: Lisa Springsteel
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons
ISBN: 1118420985
Pages: 320
Year: 2013-05-06
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The complete guide to the fashion industry, featuring interviews with top designers who explain the intricacies of the world of fashion design Anyone who has ever tried to launch a fashion design career knows how grueling it can be. The fashion industry is a highly prominent field, yielding a competitive environment that is greatly guarded, secretive, and difficult to infiltrate. Becoming a Fashion Designer provides all the information, resources, and tools you need to help you navigate these obstacles and successfully launch a career in fashion design. Of the various job opportunities available in the fashion industry, the career path of a fashion designer consistently ranks as the most popular position in the field, making the competition even greater. The book pays special attention to this and demonstrates several ways in which an aspiring fashion designer can stand out from the competition. A dynamic and comprehensive career guide, this book imparts insider tips from top fashion designers and executives based around the world. Expert advice includes an introduction to a career in fashion design, educational requirements, career opportunities, the design process, portfolio creation, preparation for getting hired, steps to start and run one's own fashion design business, as well as a forecast of the future of the fashion industry. Features original interviews from top designers and high-profile fashion executives, including Ralph Rucci, Reem Acra, Peter Som, Anna Sui, Nanette Lepore, Kay Unger, Stuart Weitzman, Dennis Basso, Randolph Duke, Zang Toi, Pamella Roland, Robert Verdi and Daymond John Includes cases in point and insider tips throughout Includes illustrations, drawings, sketches, and photographs demonstrating various aspects of working in fashion design, with special contributions from renowned illustrator, Izak Zenou and legendary fashion photographer, Nigel Barker Offers in-depth resources to assist you on your journey to becoming a fashion designer Whether a student, recent college graduate, industry professional or career changer, you'll learn everything you need to know to successfully develop a fashion design career.
Shocking Life
Author: Elsa Schiaparelli
Publisher: V&a Fashion Perspectives
ISBN: 1851779590
Pages: 211
Year: 2018-08-07
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Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973), one of the leading fashion designers of the 1920s, '30s, and '40s, was known for her flair for the unusual. The first designer to use shoulder pads and animal prints, and the inventor of shocking pink, Schiaparelli collaborated with artists including Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti, and Salvador Dal� to create extraordinary garments such as the Dal� Lobster Dress. Schiaparelli had an affluent clientele, from Katharine Hepburn to Marlene Dietrich, who embraced her outrageous but elegant designs. She designed aviator Amy Johnson's wardrobe for her solo flight to Cape Town in 1936 and the culottes for tennis champion Lil� �lvarez that outraged the lawn tennis establishment, and her clothes appeared in more than 30 films, including Every Day's a Holiday with Mae West and Moulin Rouge. Schiaparelli's fascinating autobiography charts her rise from resident of a rat-infested apartment to designer to the stars.

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